Most questions we get are about the same three things: how to measure a run properly, which finish suits the room, and what happens after you send a sketch. The notes below cover those points, and the contact details at the bottom are the direct route to a person.
Record wall length, available depth and clear walkway width before anything else. Note door swings, drains, pipework and ceiling height, because those details usually force the first revision of a bay plan. A photo of the wall plus a rough sketch is enough to start.
A bay plan shows upright positions, shelf heights and where cantilever brackets or wall channels attach. Check the upright length against your measured ceiling height, and confirm the gap between shelf levels suits what you actually stack: bakery trays and cartons need different spacing.
Load rating is stated per bay and assumes weight spread evenly, so heavier stock belongs on lower shelves. Stainless steel suits wet zones and frequent washing; epoxy coating holds up in ambient dry stores. Castor kits suit bays that need to move, and corner gussets stiffen L-shaped runs.
Questions about a measurement, a fixing type or a cold room panel are best answered by phone or email. Send the sketch and the photo together if you can, and mention the site type so the request goes to the right shelving range.
A cut list is a working document, not a guarantee. These are the points where a shelving order usually gets read two different ways, and how we settle them before anything is cut.
If your site does not match one of these cases, say so in the notes. A short description of the room is more useful than a tidy sketch that hides the awkward corner.
The figure we quote covers a bay with weight spread across the shelf. A single heavy crate in one corner is a different case, so tell us what actually sits on each level.
We work from your photo and rough sketch. Wall length, available depth, ceiling height and obstructions are your numbers, and the bay plan follows them.
Stainless and epoxy coated shelving are not interchangeable by preference alone. Humidity, washing routine and how close the bay sits to wet work decide which one holds up.
Wall channels, corner gussets and uprights are listed as separate items. If a bay runs against an insulated cold room panel, note it, because the fixing changes.
Trade pricing applies to fit-out crews ordering across a project. Single-bay orders for small kitchens are handled the same way, with the same cut list and assembly notes. Neither route changes what the bay plan contains.
Most of what we get asked sits in the same handful of places: how to measure a run properly, which finish suits the room, what the load rating actually covers, and what happens after you send a sketch. Below are straight answers to those, without the sales padding. If your situation is unusual, the notes you send with a photo usually settle it faster than a long back-and-forth.
Wall length is the starting point, but it is rarely the whole story. Record the available depth from the wall to the nearest obstruction, ceiling height, and anything that interrupts the run: door swings, drain covers, pipework, sockets and extractor ducting. For a galley, note the clear walkway width you want to keep, because that decides the maximum shelf depth. A rough sketch with upright positions and shelf heights marked is enough to work from.
Stainless steel suits wet zones, steam and areas that get washed down often, which is why it usually ends up near the pass or in a butcher's room. Epoxy coated shelving holds up well in ambient dry stores and costs less per bay, but a chipped coating over a wet floor is where rust begins. Mixed fit-outs are common: stainless in the wet areas, epoxy in the dry store, kept to the same upright gauge so bays can be extended later.
Ratings are stated per bay and generally assume weight spread evenly across the shelf. Kitchens rarely load that way. A dense stack of tins in one corner deflects a shelf more than the same weight distributed along its length, so upright gauge, wire thickness and the number of support brackets all matter. If a shelf is close to its limit, add a mid-level support or shorten the span rather than pushing the figure.
The team works from a photo and a rough sketch, then ships a cut list with assembly notes. That document lists upright lengths, shelf counts and spacing, plus the brackets, wall channels, corner gussets and castor kits the run needs. Check the upright length against your measured ceiling height before drilling, and confirm the fixing type if a bay sits against an insulated cold room panel, where standard wall plugs will not hold.
Yes, mainly around moisture and airflow. Surfaces stay wet for much of the day, so any bare edge or drilled hole becomes a starting point for corrosion. Bays should sit clear of the floor on feet or castors so water drains and cleaning reaches underneath, and shelves should not block the return air path. In a tight room, cantilever brackets on a wall channel free up floor space, provided the channel fixings suit the panel thickness.
Trade pricing is available for fit-out crews running multiple bays across a site, and single-bay orders are fine for small kitchens that just need one run sorted. Both go through the same measurement step. Castor kits are worth specifying where a bay has to move between storage and prep, but check the loaded weight against the castor rating and the floor itself, since uneven concrete and drainage channels change how a full bay rolls.
More background on materials and finishes sits in the resources section, and you can reach the team through the contact page.
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