Every bay we quote starts from your photo and rough sketch, not from a guess. Here is what that process looks like in practice, and what you can check at each stage.
We work from the numbers you send: run length, ceiling height, pipework, door swing, floor condition. Nothing gets specified until those are on the table, because a bay that fits the catalogue but not the room is a wasted order.
Each bay carries a load rating, and we tell you what it assumes: weight spread evenly across the shelf. If your storage stacks tins or cartons in one corner, say so, and we adjust the upright gauge or bracket count instead of leaving you to find the limit yourself.
Stainless steel goes where steam, washing and food contact are routine. Epoxy coating suits ambient dry stores and holds up well when the floor stays dry. We flag the trade-off in writing rather than defaulting to one material across the whole fit-out.
You receive a cut list that names upright lengths, shelf counts, bracket positions, wall channels and corner gussets as separate line items. Assembly notes sit alongside it, so the crew on site can check the drawing against the room before drilling anything.
When a measurement changes, we update the plan and mark what moved: a shorter upright, an extra mid-level support, a different fixing for insulated panels. You keep a record of what was agreed, which matters when a fit-out runs across several trades.
Fit-out crews ordering across a full kitchen get trade pricing. A small kitchen needing one bay gets the same measurement check and the same cut list. The process does not change with the size of the order.
No ratings, no promises about how fast a bay will arrive. What you get is a documented plan you can check against your own measurements before anything is cut or drilled.
The route is short and it stays on paper until the numbers line up. Here is what happens between your first message and a cut list you can hand to the crew.
A phone photo of the wall or corner, plus a hand sketch with the run length and ceiling height, is enough to start. Mark door swings, pipework and anything that blocks a shelf.
Commercial kitchen, bakery, butcher, dry store or cold room, and whether you want stainless steel or epoxy coated shelves. If you are unsure, say so and we work from the conditions instead.
Upright lengths, shelf counts and bracket positions are worked out against your measurements, including clearance for trolleys, trays and cold room panels.
The plan lists each component: wire uprights, cantilever brackets, wall channels, corner gussets and castor kits where a fixed run will not work. Assembly notes come with it.
Walk the drawing through the space before anything is fixed. This is where a misplaced upright or a shelf that crowds a walkway gets caught, while it is still a line on paper.
Trade pricing applies for fit-out crews running multiple bays, and single-bay orders are fine for a small kitchen. Every bay is load-rated, so the spec sheet travels with the order.
Modular bays built from a short list of parts. Pick the run, the finish and the fixings, and the rest follows from your measurements.
Every bay is load-rated, and the parts are sized for tight galley runs and cold rooms where a standard unit will not fit.
The frame that carries the whole bay. Upright length is set against your ceiling height, minus clearance for pipework and lights.
Free up the floor under the shelf. Useful in narrow runs where trolleys still need to pass, and where a four-post bay would block the walkway.
Mobile storage for prep areas that switch between storage and workspace. Check the floor first: drainage channels and thresholds change how a loaded bay rolls.
Run shelving along a wall without a full frame. Fixings need to suit the wall, and insulated cold room panels take a different type to blockwork.
Tie two runs together where the room turns. Awkward corners are usually the first place a bay plan needs revising, so measure both walls.
Stainless steel for wet zones and food contact areas. Epoxy coated for ambient dry stores. A mixed fit-out is common, with the same upright gauge on both.
Most of the back-and-forth on a shelving order happens before anything is cut. These are the points fit-out crews and kitchen owners usually raise first, answered plainly so you can decide what to measure and what to send.
A photo of the space and a rough sketch are enough to begin. Mark the wall run, ceiling height, door swing and anything in the way such as pipework, drainage or a cold room panel. Hand-drawn is fine. The sketch does not need to be to scale, but the measurements on it do.
Stainless steel suits wet zones, steam and frequent washing near the pass. Epoxy coated shelving handles ambient dry stores well and costs less per bay. A mixed fit-out is common: stainless in the wet areas, epoxy in the dry store, kept to the same upright gauge so bays can be extended later.
Ratings assume weight spread evenly across the shelf. A stack of tinned goods in one corner behaves differently from the same weight spread across the full width, and the shelf deflects more under a concentrated load. Upright gauge, wire thickness and bracket count all feed into the figure. If a shelf is close to its limit, add a mid-level support or shorten the span.
Castor kits let a small prep area switch between storage and workspace without a permanent footprint. The floor decides whether it works: uneven concrete, drainage channels and thresholds all affect how a loaded bay rolls. Braked castors are worth specifying on any bay staff lean against during prep.
Cold room surfaces stay wet for most of the day, so any bare steel edge or drilled hole becomes a starting point for corrosion. Shelves should sit clear of the floor on castors or feet so water drains and cleaning reaches underneath. Where the room is tight, cantilever brackets on a wall channel free up floor space, but the fixings must suit the insulated panel thickness.
You get a bay plan with upright lengths, shelf counts per bay, bracket positions and the separate line items for wall channels and corner gussets. Check the upright length against your measured ceiling height first, then the spacing between shelf levels, since a bakery tray stack and a dry store carton stack need different gaps.
Still weighing up finishes or fixings? The resources section covers material and load notes, and the help pages answer the rest.
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